Tuesday, December 31, 2013

blue moon and golden brown

After wrapping up work in Udaipur, I was able to check two more places off of my "must-see" list in Rajasthan: Jodhpur and Jaisalmer.

Jodhpur, also know as the Blue City, is the second largest city in Rajasthan. The city is about the same size as Mesquite, TX with a population just over one million. It was founded in 1459, as the capital of the princely state of Marwar. The area of northwestern India was previously divided into 22 princely states that combined to form the state of Rajasthan ("Land of Kings") following independence from Britain in 1947.

Jodhpur is known as the Blue City due to the high number of buildings that are painted blue. It is believed that the blue paint was used as a way for Brahmins (priestly caste) to identify their homes. Others believe it was done because blue made the homes cooler in the summer months. Regardless of the reason, it makes for a spectacular view.


Like all major cities in Rajasthan, Jodhpur is home to a large fort with a colorful history. Mehrangarh Fort sets atop a hill overlooking the blue buildings littered throughout the city. One major difference between this fort and others is that it is still operated by the royal family of Jodhpur, and is therefore better maintained and much cleaner in comparison to those run by government entities. The interiors throughout the ages have been meticulously decorated with gold, lush carpets, mirrors, tiles, and paintings.


Because Mehrangarh is run by the royal family trust, staff are on site to show use of weaponry, pallaquins, painting techniques, and even opium!

The culture and history in Rajasthan becomes a broken record after you visit enough places, but Jodhpur offered some variety to the usual stories. The below statue (which is life size and totally creepy in person) is of Gangaur, who was Lord Shiva's consort. She is worshiped by unmarried women to ask for blessings for their future husband, and married women worship her in hopes of having marital bliss.


As with other Rajput communities, the clan living at Mehrangarh Fort also was known for committing the act of jauhar. The women would prepare themselves for the rites of jauhar by bathing in scented oils, donning their wedding dress, finest jewellery and henna on their hands and feet. As they walked to their funeral pyre, they would press their hands to the wall, leaving the marks of their fresh henna and indicating their final descent towards death. Mehrangarh has a "widow wall" to mark this place.

After leaving Jodhpur I traveled to Jaisalmer, the western most city in India. It is situated about 55 miles from the Pakistan border, hence the large military presence. Jaisalmer is often referred to as the Golden City, due to the shades of gold cast off the yellow sandstone during sunrise and sunset. The city is very small (only 2 square miles), and is home to about 80,000 people.

A lovely lake, Gadisar Lake, is situated just on the outskirts of town. It is surrounded by temples and shrines, and you can find people out in water in paddle boats. I was out there at sunset, which perfectly reflected why Jaisalmer earned the name Golden City.
Jaisalmer is home to the Golden Fort, which is India's only living fort--meaning that the fort is still inhabited by residents. It is a little surreal to be walking through a centuries old historic monument while side stepping cows and motorcycles.


The Golden Fort was built in mid 11th century, and is one of the largest in the world. Unfortunately, it is now an endangered fort (yes, that's a real thing) due to over population and water seepage. Parts of the fort have already crumbled and organizations are stepping in to aid preservation. Unfortunately, as is the case in India, innovation and infrastructure fail to keep up with population growth. It will take a large effort of repair and support to rehab the fort. 

Of course, no visit to a desert town would be complete without a ride through the sand dunes (I was certain our SUV would roll over at any moment) and sunrise camel safari. Should I have the opportunity to go back, I hope to do the overnight camel safari complete with a bonfire and camping under the stars.


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