Thursday, October 24, 2013

cheeseburger in paradise

It's no secret that I love food. Give me queso, brisket, fried chicken, mashed potatoes with gravy, and anything wrapped in bacon. Anything. It's also no secret that Austin is a foodie haven. A glorious kaleidoscope of endless feasting wonderment. Although I love food, I've been labeled a "picky eater" more than once by my mother. You can imagine her laughter when I informed her I'd be spending a year in India as a vegetarian, "what are you going to do--eat green beans for a year??" I have yet to recognize a single food I've eaten to date...with the exception of corn flakes. Never mind the piping hot glass a milk that was given to me to pour over the cereal (huh?!).

India's large Hindu population hold cows sacred, and therefore no beef is found here. Muslims abstain from consumption of pork, which means no bacon. The company I work for is strictly vegetarian, therefore the chef is vegetarian. In fact, the bulk of my friends here are "veg". My only "non-veg" friend excitedly suggested we go to KFC for fried chicken...and I'm totally looking forward to it. The only meats available in India are chicken, fish, and goat. I considered ordering a "meatzaa" from my local Domino's, until I realized that included spicy chicken, barbecue chicken, and keema (mutton). I would pay good money for pepperoni and sausage right now. If I can swing one "non-veg" meal a week, I'm a happy girl. Oh, how the mighty have fallen!

Let's talk the basics of eating in India. First and foremost, eat with your right hand. The left hand is considered unclean and is generally frowned upon if you use it while dining. Prepare to get your fingers dirty. Most foods are eaten with some type of bread such as chapati (think tortilla) or dosa (think crepe). Cutlery is often available, but not always necessary. If you use it, leave it on your plate. If you set it down beside the plate, it will be considered a sign that its dirty and another will be brought to you (trust me, I've done this more than once). Napkins are not always present at the dinner table (although they are common at restaurants and hotels), so make sure to wash your hands after the meal.
a typical Indian lunch: roti, dal, gutta, batti, and mashed chilies. 

a tiffin (meal delivered to the office): roti, spicy gourds, potatoes and onions, ladyfingers (okra), and dal.


Meal times have taken some adjustment for me. Breakfast is around 10:00, lunch at 3:00, and dinner can start anytime between 8:00-midnight!

Breakfast usually begins with papaya, as it has natural enzymes that are beneficial for digestion. A typical breakfast may include dosa with chutney, fruit, poha (flattened rice dish with onions and peppers), idly (a puffed rice bread), sambhar (spicy soup of lentils and vegetables), vada (spicy doughtnut shaped fritter), or kachori (round flatted dough ball filled with lentils and spices). This is quite a spread in comparison to my usual bowl of cereal. 
 a typical breakfast: cornflakes, sambhar, idly, coconut chutney, and papaya

The spices are insane. Luckily, the chefs are usually kind to my American palate. However, I have been brought to tears more than once by the amount of spice in a meal.

Another rule of thumb: always ask for bottled water. No one wants to deal with a case of "Delhi belly". Bottled water such as Bisleri is easily found. In my travel experience, its safe to brush your teeth with the tap water as long as it doesn't smell bad or have an odd color. Bottled drinks are often shared amongst friends. The trick is to not put your lips on the bottle, rather just tip your head back and pray you have good aim. As it would happen, my aim is very poor and I've ended up with orange soda down the front of my shirt more than once! Offerings of coffee, chai, or water are very common here. My office has an employee who's sole job is coffee/tea/water service. I consume chai 5-6 times a day!


Sweets are very intricate here. It isn't unusual to be offered one after breakfast. Whenever there are special occasions or a new engagement in the family, sweets will be brought to the office and shared with coworkers. 

In the US, we may chew gum or have a peppermint after a meal. Here, I have been introduced to a variety of "mouth fresheners". It is not unusual for me to be offered cardamom by a a coworker after lunch. Restaurants often supply a dish with "saunf" (fennel/anise seeds with sugar crystals). Put a small spoonful of both in your hand and toss them back. Another common mouth freshener is "meetha paan", which is a betel leaf wrapped around coconut, candied fruits, lime, and spices. I personally don't care for them, they make me feel like my mouth is being assaulted by a spice cabinet.
Occasionally a gal gets homesick for a familiar meal, namely chips and queso. Tortilla chips are not easy to come by, so sometimes I just have to improvise!

1 comment:

  1. I'm so impressed with your food exploration. I am one of those that call you a picky eater but rather than pick I feel it's just particular. You are a carnavor with a side of mashed potatoes. I would like someone to video you while you attempt to pour liquid from a bottle into your mouth...please make this happen :-) How was the "queso"? and your nails look great! MISS YOU!! LOVE YOU MY loveLEE!

    ReplyDelete