a horse with no name

All of my friends are amused with the fact that I am so enraptured with the camels and elephants traveling the streets of Jaipur. To them, it is normal to pass a slow moving elephant while riding a motorcycle. I'm too busy giggling and attempting to take pictures.

That being said, I had the opportunity to spend four days at the Pushkar ka Mela (Pushkar Camel Fair). During this time up to 300,000 people flood the town of Pushkar along with 50,000 camels! The holy town of Pushkar is situated about two and a half hours from Jaipur; alcohol and non-vegetarian foods are forbidden in the town. The Pushkar name means "lotus flower", which is considered auspicious in India due to its ties to Hindu religious beliefs. During the mela, crowds of people descend upon the town in hopes of purchasing livestock as well as taking a dip in one of the many ghats (holy baths). According to legend, the Hindu god Brahma sprung from sacred waters of Pushkar Lake, hence the popularity of the ghats.

sunrise view of the town from Pushkar Lake

The sleepy town of Pushkar (population: 15,000) becomes a whirl of activity every fall with the onset of the mela. I loved the hustle and bustle of the people and animals during my time there. The days began before sunrise (I could hear music from the mela grounds at 5:30 every morning) and lasted long past sunset. When people weren't busy surveying the livestock of the fair, they were buying goods in the market or attending one of the many carnival rides littering the town.

While in Pushkar, I was glamping--staying in luxury Swiss tents, complete with running water and flush toilets. However, I am still in India, so hot water was delivered to me in a bucket everyday for my "shower". This was really fun, even though the temperatures dropped to the mid-fifties at night.

As to be expected, the mela is very popular with tourists and photography groups. Hot air balloons are launched everyday at sunrise and sunset. Crowds of people assemble to watch the balloons inflate and take flight.

 As with anywhere I go in India, I was constantly approached by children. They would wave from the tops of vehicles and approach me in the mela, shyly saying hello. They often asked to have their picture "clicked". Although some asked for money, most were simply curious. I had one darling little girl approach me and hold my hand for about 20 minutes while watching the hot air balloons. Adults seemed more immune to the tourists, but I did have an elderly lady in the market stroke my hair and pull me into a fierce hug. She then smiled warmly and went on her way.

As you can imagine, camels are everywhere. They can be found lazing at the mela grounds, carrying tourists for safaris, and pulling carts.

The camels at the fair are dromedary, or single hump camels. They are used for meat, milk, leather, hair for textiles and as work animals. Something that surprised me was the range of hair color and size. They can grow to a height of 7+ feet tall, live to be 50, and run up to 40 mph. After wandering freely through the mela grounds, trust me when I say that you do not want to get caught in a stampede! I never saw any camels spitting, but they do bark and hiss. However, I found most to be rather gentle and unperturbed by the activity around them.

One of my favorite things about the mela was the decoration of the camels. Camels are decorated with ornate necklaces and piercings. Others are painted with geometric shapes, or have intricate designs shaved into their hair. Pushkar even boasts of having a camel beauty competition!

Outside of my obvious delight with the camels, I fell in love with the colors of Pushkar. The dress of the people is vibrant to the point of painful. Bold colors adorn men and women alike. When I wasn't busy staring at camels, I was taking in the colors of the people.

During my Pushkar adventure, I met people from everywhere imaginable: France, Japan, Austria, Israel, Hong Kong, Germany. One of the most interesting people I met was a photographer by the name of Andy VC. He hails from Colombia and focuses on shooting human rights violations. He purchased a camel (which he named Pinto) to use as an opening topic of conversation with people attending the mela. He is then better able to gain access to the subject he wishes to capture. His goal was to sell Pinto by the end of the fair. If he didn't succeed, he planned to give him to a family in need. As it would happen, Pinto was a bit of a flirt and kept leaning in for kisses.

The mela was four days of chaos and exhaustion, but I am so thrilled I had a chance to witness it firsthand!

hot child in the city

Nekibur (Nikki) and I had to be in Delhi for a few days for work, so we decided to make the most of our free time and do some exploring. Like Washington D.C., Delhi is the capital of India. Although it is similar in size to Houston, it is home to more than 22 million people. Delhi is one of the world's most populous cities, second only to Tokyo. I find the city to be crowded and overly polluted; I would much rather be at home in Jaipur. Regardless, Nikki and I took advantage of the morning hours to see some of the sights Delhi has to offer.

Our first visit was to Qutab Minar, which is also the only site open on Mondays. Something to be noted about visiting India's historic sites: foreigners are charged exorbitant prices in comparison to Indian nationals (i.e. Qutab Minar entrance fees: 250 rupees/$4 USD versus 10 rupees/16 cents USD).

Qutab Minar is a 238 foot tall Islamic monument found in an area referred to as the Qutab complex. It is a large red sandstone and marble pillar that was constructed in 1192 covered with inscriptions from the Qur'an. An intricately carved marble mosque, living quarters, and burial site can be found on the complex grounds as well. Hindus cremate their dead, whereas Muslims bury their dead.

Day two helped me appreciate the phrase "hazy shade of winter". Obviously Simon and Garfunkel spent some time in Delhi! Winters here are equated with foggy conditions (although I'm guessing the haze is partially due to pollution). Yesterday's blue skies were replaced with a blanket of grey, which isn't very kind to snapping pictures.  Luckily Google images came to my rescue for blogging purposes (I swear, the Lotus Temple really looks like that!).

Nikki and I ventured out to the Baha'i House of Worship, more commonly known as the Lotus Temple. It is an imposing structure, although surprisingly small inside. It was built in 1986 and is open to members of all faiths as a place to come and pray. It is set in the middle of a perfectly manicured garden and surrounded by nine pools. No formal services are held at the temple, and the interior calls for complete silence so people may worship peacefully.

It is a beautiful and impressive temple, and therefore doesn't come as a shock that it has won many architectural awards and accolades.

Quite frankly, Delhi leaves something to be desired. Fortunately for us, Agra is a quick jaunt by train. And "quick jaunt" by India's terms means 2-3 hours. We caught the 6:00 am train from Delhi to Agra in hopes of escaping the chaos (and work!) for the day.

Our first stop in Agra was the Tomb of I'timād-ud-Daulah, sometimes referred to as "Baby Taj". Incidentally this is the resting place of Mirzā Ghiyās Beg, who happens to be the grandfather of Mumtaz Mahal, for whom the Taj Mahal was built. After 6 years of construction, this mausoleum was completed in 1628 and sits in a lovely garden along the Yamuna River. As luck would have it, the grounds were virtually empty when we visited.

Everywhere we visited in Agra were gorgeous displays of Mughal architecture, which is known for its use of marble, semi-precious stones, and elaborate craftsmanship.

Next on our list was the Agra Fort, which is a sprawling "walled city" covering 94 acres with walls at 70 feet high. Although the site has a history dating back almost 1000 years, the current state we see it in was completed during the 1628-1658 reign of Shah Jahan (who is more widely known for his construction of the Taj Mahal). An interesting tale surrounding the fort is that towards the end of his life, Shah Jahan was deposed by his son and held at the fort. However, his son placed him in captivity where he had a view of the Taj Mahal, the final resting place of his beloved wife Mumtāz Mahāl.

 

Naturally, we ended our day at the Taj Mahal. I could hardly move to India for a year and neglect to visit one of the modern wonders of the world!

 (yes, I really took this picture...and yes, I have awesome iPhone editing apps)

The Taj Mahal was built as a final resting place for Shah Jahan's third wife, Mumtāz Mahāl. She died at age 38 while giving birth to her fourteenth child. Although his third wife, it was widely recognized that she was the great love of his life and his first two marriages were merely perfunctory.

The Taj Mahal is as beautiful in real life as the pictures make it out to be. People arrive by droves in hopes of glimpsing inside the intricate marble walls. When I wasn't busy taking pictures of my own, I was being bombarded by people asking me to take pictures with them. For whatever reason, I am constantly mobbed in India with requests for pictures. Apparently all Americans are movie stars in India. Finally, Nikki dragged me away so we could look inside. He also suggested I start charging per picture. I would've made a small fortune by now! 

Even though the Taj Mahal is wonderfully large outside, you'll be surprised to know that the interior is rather small. There is an octagonal walkway around the two cenotaphs (empty tombs), with plenty of natural light. The actual tombs are beneath the Taj, and inaccessible to the general public. No shoes (although they give foreigners ugly shoe booties) and no photography is allowed inside.

(shhh, don't tell anyone!)

With all of the running around we had been doing, it was nice to just sit and relax amidst the throng.

  A 6 1/2 hour bus ride later, and we're back to Jaipur and back to the real world.

starlight

Right now India is in the festive season known as Diwali (also called Deepavali). It is commonly referred to as the "Festival of Lights", but more importantly it is spiritually significant in terms of recognizing inner light. Diwali is a five day long celebration in which families get together and participate in a variety of traditional activities. Although this is primarily a Hindu holiday, it is also celebrated by Sikhs and Jains. Small clay lamps are painstakingly filled with oil and lit continuously throughout the night to signify the triumph of good over evil. Firecrackers can be heard throughout the evenings, as they are believed to ward off evil.  Because I am an interpreter for a family business, I have the opportunity to witness the intricacies of this festival not normally afforded to a foreigner.

 Ganesh (god of auspicious beginnings and remover of obstacles) with several small deeyas (clay pots) to welcome prosperity.

I just so happen to live in a city that its well known for its Diwali celebration. Carnivals can be found on every street corner with rides, foods, and vendors selling various wares to exchange with friends and family for Diwali. I've been to the carnival 3 times in the last week!

Tinsel is strung so heavily that it has formed a canopy covering the streets. Lights cover every surface of the city. I might as well start referring to the old city as Las Vegas. Some of the displays are incredibly intricate, requiring weeks of preparation. The streets are crowded with late night shoppers, tourists, and vehicles loaded with people checking out the lights.

As with any special occasion in India, many women have their hands decorated with mehndi (read: henna). These can be very simple to very complex designs that will last up to a few weeks.

Although Diwali lasts for five days, the third day is the most important. This day, Amavaysa, marks the worship of Laksmi, the goddess of wealth. Pujas (prayer rituals) are performed in homes and businesses in hopes of receiving the blessing of prosperity for the upcoming year. Also on this day, people wear new clothing and have large meals with family. If you're lucky enough, drummers will show up at your home to encourage plenty of dancing.

Don't plan on going to sleep at a decent hour, because the fireworks will continue long into the night!

water runs dry

It's been determined that the early morning is the easiest time for all my friends to get together. Our work schedules rarely line up for us to all be off at the same time (not to mention India has a 6 day work week). Any of you and attest to my love of sleep, yet I've seen the sunrise three times this week! This means taking one of my beloved daybreak motorcycle rides through the city.

This morning we headed to Panna Meena ka Kund, a small kund (sacred water tank) nestled amongst the cobbled streets of Amer. It is relatively unknown and there wasn't any signage explaining its significance. From the research I've done, it is an 8 story step-well that was constructed in the sixteenth century. During our visit, only 4ish stories were visible due to water levels.

If it looks vaguely familiar, perhaps you watched The Fall or Paheli. More than likely, you recognize the architecture as having a keen resemblance to Bane's prison in The Dark Knight Rises.

The Dark Knight Rises was actually filmed at Chand Baori, a step-well of monstrous proportions about 95 km (59 miles) from my home. We're hoping to make the drive one of these mornings!

One of my favorite things about our early mornings jaunts is that we usually have the place to ourselves. Well, we made concessions for the langurs and the fish we were feeding.

According to local lore, it's impossible to ascend the steps in the exact manner that you descended. We didn't even bother trying!

Like any good morning adventure, we required a stop for chai along the shore at Jal Mahal and a stop at a street vendor for breakfast (kachori and jalebi--fried batter soaked in syrup). Dal kachori (lentil filled fritter) is quickly becoming my favorite breakfast snack. Needless to say, going vegetarian doesn't equate dropping dress sizes around these parts!

I have a feeling I'll be seeing many more sunrises in India...

cheeseburger in paradise

It's no secret that I love food. Give me queso, brisket, fried chicken, mashed potatoes with gravy, and anything wrapped in bacon. Anything. It's also no secret that Austin is a foodie haven. A glorious kaleidoscope of endless feasting wonderment. Although I love food, I've been labeled a "picky eater" more than once by my mother. You can imagine her laughter when I informed her I'd be spending a year in India as a vegetarian, "what are you going to do--eat green beans for a year??" I have yet to recognize a single food I've eaten to date...with the exception of corn flakes. Never mind the piping hot glass a milk that was given to me to pour over the cereal (huh?!).

India's large Hindu population hold cows sacred, and therefore no beef is found here. Muslims abstain from consumption of pork, which means no bacon. The company I work for is strictly vegetarian, therefore the chef is vegetarian. In fact, the bulk of my friends here are "veg". My only "non-veg" friend excitedly suggested we go to KFC for fried chicken...and I'm totally looking forward to it. The only meats available in India are chicken, fish, and goat. I considered ordering a "meatzaa" from my local Domino's, until I realized that included spicy chicken, barbecue chicken, and keema (mutton). I would pay good money for pepperoni and sausage right now. If I can swing one "non-veg" meal a week, I'm a happy girl. Oh, how the mighty have fallen!

Let's talk the basics of eating in India. First and foremost, eat with your right hand. The left hand is considered unclean and is generally frowned upon if you use it while dining. Prepare to get your fingers dirty. Most foods are eaten with some type of bread such as chapati (think tortilla) or dosa (think crepe). Cutlery is often available, but not always necessary. If you use it, leave it on your plate. If you set it down beside the plate, it will be considered a sign that its dirty and another will be brought to you (trust me, I've done this more than once). Napkins are not always present at the dinner table (although they are common at restaurants and hotels), so make sure to wash your hands after the meal.

 

a typical Indian lunch: roti, dal, gutta, batti, and mashed chilies. 

a tiffin (meal delivered to the office): roti, spicy gourds, potatoes and onions, ladyfingers (okra), and dal.

Meal times have taken some adjustment for me. Breakfast is around 10:00, lunch at 3:00, and dinner can start anytime between 8:00-midnight!

Breakfast usually begins with papaya, as it has natural enzymes that are beneficial for digestion. A typical breakfast may include dosa with chutney, fruit, poha (flattened rice dish with onions and peppers), idly (a puffed rice bread), sambhar (spicy soup of lentils and vegetables), vada (spicy doughtnut shaped fritter), or kachori (round flatted dough ball filled with lentils and spices). This is quite a spread in comparison to my usual bowl of cereal. 

 a typical breakfast: cornflakes, sambhar, idly, coconut chutney, and papaya

The spices are insane. Luckily, the chefs are usually kind to my American palate. However, I have been brought to tears more than once by the amount of spice in a meal.

Another rule of thumb: always ask for bottled water. No one wants to deal with a case of "Delhi belly". Bottled water such as Bisleri is easily found. In my travel experience, its safe to brush your teeth with the tap water as long as it doesn't smell bad or have an odd color. Bottled drinks are often shared amongst friends. The trick is to not put your lips on the bottle, rather just tip your head back and pray you have good aim. As it would happen, my aim is very poor and I've ended up with orange soda down the front of my shirt more than once! Offerings of coffee, chai, or water are very common here. My office has an employee who's sole job is coffee/tea/water service. I consume chai 5-6 times a day!

Sweets are very intricate here. It isn't unusual to be offered one after breakfast. Whenever there are special occasions or a new engagement in the family, sweets will be brought to the office and shared with coworkers. 

In the US, we may chew gum or have a peppermint after a meal. Here, I have been introduced to a variety of "mouth fresheners". It is not unusual for me to be offered cardamom by a a coworker after lunch. Restaurants often supply a dish with "saunf" (fennel/anise seeds with sugar crystals). Put a small spoonful of both in your hand and toss them back. Another common mouth freshener is "meetha paan", which is a betel leaf wrapped around coconut, candied fruits, lime, and spices. I personally don't care for them, they make me feel like my mouth is being assaulted by a spice cabinet.

Occasionally a gal gets homesick for a familiar meal, namely chips and queso. Tortilla chips are not easy to come by, so sometimes I just have to improvise!

monkey wrench

Again and again, the waking hours are proving to be my favorite time to be out in the city of Jaipur. The streets are quiet with the exception of the cows, dogs, and handful of people heading to the markets. Being gluttons for punishment, we all decided to get up at 5:30 and watch the sunrise while we visited the Galtaji Temple.

the sunrise gang: (left to right) Chetna, Nekibur, Shubhi, Amit, and Sanjay

Galtaji, which is known colloquially as the "monkey temple", is found in the Aravalli Hills (near Amer Fort and Nahargarh Fort). The temple complex, built in the 18th century, is home to a large population of rhesus macaques. You'll find them snacking along side cows, goats, and even hitching rides on the backs of pigs! The complex has several temples and seven sacred kunds (water tanks) fed by natural springs. It isn't unusual to find people bathing in the kunds as you walk amongst the temples, although a large pilgrimage happens once a year on Makar Sankranti (the coming of spring).
The monkeys are everywhere to be seen. They line the walkways down to the temple (it's a bit of a hike) watching all that pass by. You will find them noisily barking orders at one another and jumping building to building, where others can be found seated on a rooftop as if pondering the meaning of life. Some are playful, some will eat out of your hand if you're lucky, and some will try to grab at your satchel if you aren't careful!

Of course, Amit and I had to do some monkeying around of our own...

Two hours of hiking through Galtaji and hanging out with monkeys will work up an appetite. We all headed into the old city for kachori (potato, onions, peas, black pepper, ground flour, and other spices baked into a fritter) from a street vendor and chai on Chetna's rooftop.

I have a feeling we'll all be taking nice long naps today!