when I'm 64

janmdin mubaarak ho!

(happy birthday!)

Recently, I had the opportunity to take part in a birthday celebration in India. My friend Nekibur turned 30 on October 18 (welcome to the 30's club!), which gave me the chance to learn a bit about birthday traditions in India.

I often quiz my friends on Indian traditions. I learned a little bit about birth and naming ceremonies. Although there are various religious rituals dependent upon faith of the family, there are some overarching commonalities.Typically after a baby is born, mother and child remain in the home (5-7 days) because it is believed that they are vulnerable to evil spirits during this time. After this period of time, a puja (religious rites/prayer) is performed by a priest to garner blessings for the baby. Then the namkaran (literal translation: "making of name") is performed. The baby's horoscope will be drawn at this time. Although the parents may have determined a name, there are other instances in which a letter is suggested by the priest and a family elder will whisper the name in the baby's ear.

As with everything in India, birthdays involve plenty of eating. We had a small celebration in our office with cake and khana (food). It is customary for the birthday boy/girl to cut the cake into small pieces and feed their guests. Likewise, guests feed cake to the birthday boy/girl. This usually results a very messy face. We think the sombrero and whipped cream on the nose in Mexican restaurants is bad...this is definitely worse!

left: mango milk cake
right: onion kachori with red chutney, gulab jamun, and rasgulla

That evening, several friends got together at my apartment and we all cooked a large meal with more cake smashing and dancing. For the record, I am terrible at Punjabi dancing!

house of the rising sun

Moving to the other side of the world means trying to find a place to call "home". Now that I've been here about three weeks, I've mastered most of the nuances of my home away from home.

I live with my roommate Amit in a large 3 bed/3 bath apartment in C-Scheme in Jaipur. C-Scheme is one of the "wealthy" areas in Jaipur, and is considerably cleaner and quieter in comparison to other parts of the city. My apartment is on the 5th (top) floor, and has a lift (read: elevator) operator and watchman at the gate.

According to a survey published by the Times of India, 1/3 of urban homes have 258 sq ft of living space or less. Given that the average household size in urban homes is 4.3, this translates to approximately 60 sq ft of living space per person, which is the minimum requirements for a US prison cell. That being said, my apartment is of luxurious proportions.

My apartment is across the street from the the Indian version of the FBI. Although it is within walking distance to the market, spa, bookstore, and my workplace, I have a driver that brings me to and from work everyday, as well as any errands that I need to run.

I have yet to see a traditional "house" in India. Metro areas have flats/apartments for housing. Only the very elite own a house, and these still often resemble a multi-story apartment due to the joint-family living situation in India. Most families live with grandparents, parents, siblings, and children all within one home. It's rare to see a "nuclear" family in a home independent from their extended family. Married women leave their families and live with their in-laws.

My apartment is considered very nice, although I had to do some adjusting.

First of all, let's talk switches.

You want to turn on a light? Flip a switch. Turn on the fan? Flip a switch. Use the microwave? Flip a switch. Blow-dry your hair? Flip the outlet switch. Need hot water? Flip the geyser (read: hot water heater) switch. I literally spent a week taking cold showers because I didn't know to flip on the geyser switch! On one hand, this is very green. On the other hand, I waste a lot of time flipping switches until I find the one I need.

I finally used the stovetop in my kitchen for the first time this evening. I have been nervous to use it since it hooked up to a giant propane tank.

Most Indians believe that storing food is unhealthy, therefore meals are made fresh from scratch daily. I have access to a chef at my workplace, where I am stuffed to my eyeballs everyday with delicious Indian food. However, sometimes it's nice to come back to my apartment and whip up some macaroni and cheese.

I have a nice large bedroom with the US equivalent of a king size bed. I have a window AC unit in my bedroom (thank goodness!), although it's in celsius. My bedroom has large wardrobes for my clothing and vanity for all my bathroom accessories. The only adjustments have been getting used to a very firm mattress (commonplace here) and the lack of bed sheets. When you buy bed sheets in India, you will get one flat sheet and two pillowcases. The flat sheet will be used to cover the mattress and a blanket will be kept at the foot of the bed.

 
My largest adjustment has been to the bathroom. I set two alarms every morning. One alarm to turn on the geyser, and a second alarm thirty minutes later to jump in the shower.

Where we are used to a sectioned off shower in the US, in India my shower is next to the toilet in one large tile space. It is common to find large buckets in showers to use to fill with water in case water pressure is lacking. My bathroom has a giant squeegee in it to push all residual water on the floor to one of the two drains.

Bathrooms in India make use of bidets. Toilet paper is sometimes found in restaurants or hotels. You know what they say--"when in Rome...", however this ended in disaster for me. I highly recommend bringing toilet paper with you when traveling in India. Luckily, it is easily found in the grocery store.

Outside of the bathroom, the only other odd thing for me has been the number of servants. I have a driver, chef, maid, separate maid for the bathroom and dishes, and someone who does my laundry. I overheard a humorous conversation amongst some Indians discussing how terrible it must be to live in America and not have servants! It's all in the eye of the beholder, I suppose.

Needless to say, I'm starting to enjoy my new space in India, plus my roommate bakes regularly to satisfy his major sweet tooth. Chocolate chip maple syrup blueberry cookies, anyone?

sunset view from my terrace

pink

Finally having a full weekend off allowed me the opportunity to be a tourist in my own city. I spent the entire day with a tour guide, taking in all the sights that Jaipur has to offer.

Jaipur is the capital of Rajasthan, which is a state about the size of Montana. The city is similar in size to Boston, and is home to about 3 million people. The weather almost perfectly mirrors Austin, so I feel right at home in the heat. Something I really appreciate about Jaipur is the balance of city amenities and rural charm. You would never see elephants on the street in somewhere metropolitan like Delhi or Mumbai.


The city was founded in 1727, and can be divided into two parts: the old city and the modern city. The old city is surrounded by towering pink walls, and has seven gates for entry. All of the buildings within the city are the same shade of pink, earning it the name, Pink City.

I began my day at Amer Fort, which was built in 1592. It is nestled in the Aravalli Hills above the Maota Lake. It was built with four courtyards, temple, a private palace for the Maharaja, and private quarters for his 12 wives.

After Amer Fort, I went by Jal Mahal (Water Palace) situated on Man Sagar Lake. It is five stories tall, but four of the stories are underwater.

I also had a chance to meet this guy:

My third stop was Jantar Mantar. I've been wanting to visit here ever since I watched the movie The Fall, which was done by Indian director Tarsem Singh and filmed over 20 different countries. Several sites in Rajasthan can be seen in the film. Jantar Mantar (translates to Instrument Calculation) is an observatory with fourteen different devices that are used to measure time, predict eclipses, and track the locations of constellations. It is home to the world's largest sundial, Samrat Yantra, measuring 88.5 feet tall.

Next on the list was City Palace, built in 1732. It is a palace complex containing multiple mahals and temples. Craftsmen can be found selling their painitngs, marble statues, vases, clothing, and textiles on the grounds.

The final destination was Hawa Mahal (Palace of the Winds). It was originally constructed to allow royal ladies observe every life in the city through laticed windows (jharokas) without being seen, as they were required to keep their faces covered. It was built in 1799 and can be found in the heart of the Pink City.

Jaipur is a beautiful bustling city, and I can't wait to keep exploring!

midnight train to georgia

Planes,  trains, and automobiles...I've had my fair share of transportation experiences since arriving to India. In fact, getting around in this country is so convoluted that it deserves its own blog focus.

The roads are crowded. Like, shockingly overwhelmingly mind-numbingly (hey, it's a word!) crowded. I've mentioned it before--lanes are merely a suggestion and stop lights are a rare sighting (in Jaipur at least). It is common to see vehicles flooding a single lane, openly vying for the front of the pack. I've seen bicycles on the highway on more than one occasion. Four-way intersections are met with a cacophony of horns and voices as vehicles and people maneuver through the traffic.

typical morning traffic

Rickshaws (read: pedicabs) and auto rickshaws (small 3-wheeled open vehicles) are very common forms of transportation, more so than regular cars. Because of their small size, they can easily weave through traffic, and are a fraction of the cost.

rickshaws/autorickshaws

Motorcycles and scooters are probably the most common form of transportation. It is not uncommon to see a family of four huddled together on the back of one. Women in saris can be seen gracefully riding sidesaddle on the back of a motorcycle whereas I am clutching on for dear life. Law calls for a maximum of two riders and use of helmets, however this seems to be largely ignored. Luckily, my job affords me the use of a driver to transport me where needed.

riding sidesaddle

Trains are the preferred form of travel for long distances, as flights are a luxury afforded by few. The Indian railway transports over 24 million people daily. Although people do use personal vehicles or buses for travel, road conditions and traffic can easily cause a 3 hour trip to morph into an 8 hour trip. Fares depend on which class you purchase (sleeper, AC, etc). The stations are crowded with people, both passengers and those looking for shelter to sleep. The smell is overpowering and be careful of puddles, for they may have questionable origin. 

Oddly enough, my favorite part of the roads are the animals. Cows and dogs roam freely throughout the cities. Don't be surprised to see a cluster of cows grazing or curled up sleeping like cats on the side of the road. I enjoy riding through the city on the back of a motorcycle while the city is still waking. You will see camel-drawn carts delivering goods the market. They may be decorated with colorful garlands or carnations perched upon their noses. Men can be seen riding elephants in the streets along side vehicles and buses.

The noise is ungodly. I mentioned in an earlier post that the honking isn't a rude gesture, rather a warning: "I'm coming up behind you" or "watch out, I'm making a left turn". With the neglect of proper lanes, you can imagine the sheer volume of the streets. Dippers (blinkers) are used primarily at nighttime. Most large trucks have signs painted on the back advising "blow horn" and "use dipper".

Moral of the story? Invest in earplugs, Dramamine, and a sense of adventure when traveling in India!

one week

I've heard many people use the word "accosted" to describe how they felt when visiting India for the first time. They feel overwhelmed by the sights, sounds, and smells of the country. The sheer number of people can be overwhelming. I've decided that I hate that description of India. I've been here one week now, and I'm starting to get a better feel for the country and the people.

Don't get me wrong, I understand why people can feel overwhelmed. Opulence is neighbored  by abject poverty. People crowd the markets and the streets. I have been approached more than once by children that try to rub the white off of my skin. Although Jaipur is a tourist friendly city, I am openly stared at on the streets. However, I have found the people to be extremely kind and generous.

The roads can feel terrifying initially. Stop lights are practically non-existent. The honking is incessant. Where we (in the US) may perceive honking as a rude gesture, here it is more of a courtesy--"heads-up, I'm coming up next to you", "watch out, I'm making a left turn." The lanes are merely suggestions, and scooters and motorcycles weave in and out of traffic. It isn't uncommon to see a family of four riding a single scooter. Having survived multiple car, motorcycle, and autorickshaw rides since my arrival, I can assure you that the roads are not nearly as scary as they were when I arrived. Regardless, I don't know if I'll ever get used to driving on the left side of the road!

View from the back of Amit's motorcycle in Jaipur

I am fed constantly, and have yet to recognize a single food I've eaten. The spices are rich, but the chefs are kind to my American palate. A word to the wise--always leave your fork on your plate. During my first meal here, I set my fork to the side of the plate, which is apparently a sign that it is dirty. By the end of the meal, I had three forks and a very confused server! Tea and coffee service is a constant throughout the day--I often consume chai 5-6 times a day. Being a vegetarian isn't too bad, but I definitely miss bacon and brisket.

Top: namkeen shots (curd, onion, tomato, tamarind, and bundi)

Bottom: bhelpuri (namkeen, onions, cheese, coriander, lemon)

Instead of feeling accosted, I feel that the country is vibrant. It is boisterous and colorful and has some of the kindest people I have ever met.

good morning starshine

Now that I have been here a few days, I finally had the opportunity to begin exploring Jaipur. Today is Gandhi Jayanti (Gandhi's birthday), which is a national holiday in India. It seemed like a perfect day to get out and about.

My roommate Amit and I woke up very early, and our friend (and fellow interpreter) Shuhbhi met us our our apartment soon afterwards and we headed out. Scooters and motorcycles are incredibly popular, in addition to the autorickshaws and regular rickshaws. The honking is incessant, and traffic is certainly frightening for foreigners. Never mind the fact that they drive on the left side of the road and lanes are merely suggestions. However, the early morning ride found the streets quiet, with the occasional man riding an elephant, or camel-drawn cart bringing goods to the market.

We drove the winding Aravalli Hills to Nahargarh Fort, which means "Abode of Tigers". At one time, this fort was joined with 2 other nearby forts to provide defense to the city. It has now virtually crumbled to the ground. However, sitting upon one of the few remaining walls allows for some of the most breathtaking views of the city, especially at sunrise!

View atop Narargarh Fort of Jaipur

Amit and Shubhi posing on top of the wall

Perched on the wall (Shubhi and I)

After our sunrise gazing, we rode down to the Jal Mahal (Water Palace), which is situated in the middle of Man Sagar Lake. There we stopped for chai wallah (a person that makes a spiced milk tea--often called masala tea--on the roadside) and to feed the fish.  

Masala tea from the chai wallah 

Jal Mahal and Man Sagar Lake

Let the adventures continue...

leavin' on a jet plane

Traveling a lot requires patience and some creativity. I like to people watch in airports and make up stories about where they're from. Sometimes I like to play the game of "Guess That Accent". Turns out, I'm quite terrible at that game. I'm also terrible at recreating accents. Australian, British, German, Japanese--they all sound the same coming out of my mouth.

Getting on the plane in Heathrow, I suddenly found myself submersed in kitschy British and Indian accents. And then I realized I finally had as shot at being the foreigner with an exotic accent.

I got a brief taste of being the foreigner with the exotic accent when I was living in Maine. Being from Texas, I was able to play the part of the sweet southern belle. They tittered at my use of phrases like "knee high to a cricket" or "slower than molasses". If only they heard my mother speak, they would know I was a poor substitute for a true southern drawl.

Stepping on the plane from London to Delhi, I had grandiose ideas of finally having an exotic accent. The flight attendant asked me if I would like a spot of tea, or if I had rubbish to dispose of. My neighbor inquired if I was enjoying my chocolate biscuit. Such wonderful words--rubbish! biscuit! 

Alas, as the flight bore on, I realized I am virtually devoid of quaint words. Bloody hell! Instead, I am full of nonsense words like "y'all" and "fixin' to". Dreams dashed, I suppose I can settle for being the foreigner with the strange accent.