a horse with no name

All of my friends are amused with the fact that I am so enraptured with the camels and elephants traveling the streets of Jaipur. To them, it is normal to pass a slow moving elephant while riding a motorcycle. I'm too busy giggling and attempting to take pictures.

That being said, I had the opportunity to spend four days at the Pushkar ka Mela (Pushkar Camel Fair). During this time up to 300,000 people flood the town of Pushkar along with 50,000 camels! The holy town of Pushkar is situated about two and a half hours from Jaipur; alcohol and non-vegetarian foods are forbidden in the town. The Pushkar name means "lotus flower", which is considered auspicious in India due to its ties to Hindu religious beliefs. During the mela, crowds of people descend upon the town in hopes of purchasing livestock as well as taking a dip in one of the many ghats (holy baths). According to legend, the Hindu god Brahma sprung from sacred waters of Pushkar Lake, hence the popularity of the ghats.

sunrise view of the town from Pushkar Lake

The sleepy town of Pushkar (population: 15,000) becomes a whirl of activity every fall with the onset of the mela. I loved the hustle and bustle of the people and animals during my time there. The days began before sunrise (I could hear music from the mela grounds at 5:30 every morning) and lasted long past sunset. When people weren't busy surveying the livestock of the fair, they were buying goods in the market or attending one of the many carnival rides littering the town.

While in Pushkar, I was glamping--staying in luxury Swiss tents, complete with running water and flush toilets. However, I am still in India, so hot water was delivered to me in a bucket everyday for my "shower". This was really fun, even though the temperatures dropped to the mid-fifties at night.

As to be expected, the mela is very popular with tourists and photography groups. Hot air balloons are launched everyday at sunrise and sunset. Crowds of people assemble to watch the balloons inflate and take flight.

 As with anywhere I go in India, I was constantly approached by children. They would wave from the tops of vehicles and approach me in the mela, shyly saying hello. They often asked to have their picture "clicked". Although some asked for money, most were simply curious. I had one darling little girl approach me and hold my hand for about 20 minutes while watching the hot air balloons. Adults seemed more immune to the tourists, but I did have an elderly lady in the market stroke my hair and pull me into a fierce hug. She then smiled warmly and went on her way.

As you can imagine, camels are everywhere. They can be found lazing at the mela grounds, carrying tourists for safaris, and pulling carts.

The camels at the fair are dromedary, or single hump camels. They are used for meat, milk, leather, hair for textiles and as work animals. Something that surprised me was the range of hair color and size. They can grow to a height of 7+ feet tall, live to be 50, and run up to 40 mph. After wandering freely through the mela grounds, trust me when I say that you do not want to get caught in a stampede! I never saw any camels spitting, but they do bark and hiss. However, I found most to be rather gentle and unperturbed by the activity around them.

One of my favorite things about the mela was the decoration of the camels. Camels are decorated with ornate necklaces and piercings. Others are painted with geometric shapes, or have intricate designs shaved into their hair. Pushkar even boasts of having a camel beauty competition!

Outside of my obvious delight with the camels, I fell in love with the colors of Pushkar. The dress of the people is vibrant to the point of painful. Bold colors adorn men and women alike. When I wasn't busy staring at camels, I was taking in the colors of the people.

During my Pushkar adventure, I met people from everywhere imaginable: France, Japan, Austria, Israel, Hong Kong, Germany. One of the most interesting people I met was a photographer by the name of Andy VC. He hails from Colombia and focuses on shooting human rights violations. He purchased a camel (which he named Pinto) to use as an opening topic of conversation with people attending the mela. He is then better able to gain access to the subject he wishes to capture. His goal was to sell Pinto by the end of the fair. If he didn't succeed, he planned to give him to a family in need. As it would happen, Pinto was a bit of a flirt and kept leaning in for kisses.

The mela was four days of chaos and exhaustion, but I am so thrilled I had a chance to witness it firsthand!

hot child in the city

Nekibur (Nikki) and I had to be in Delhi for a few days for work, so we decided to make the most of our free time and do some exploring. Like Washington D.C., Delhi is the capital of India. Although it is similar in size to Houston, it is home to more than 22 million people. Delhi is one of the world's most populous cities, second only to Tokyo. I find the city to be crowded and overly polluted; I would much rather be at home in Jaipur. Regardless, Nikki and I took advantage of the morning hours to see some of the sights Delhi has to offer.

Our first visit was to Qutab Minar, which is also the only site open on Mondays. Something to be noted about visiting India's historic sites: foreigners are charged exorbitant prices in comparison to Indian nationals (i.e. Qutab Minar entrance fees: 250 rupees/$4 USD versus 10 rupees/16 cents USD).

Qutab Minar is a 238 foot tall Islamic monument found in an area referred to as the Qutab complex. It is a large red sandstone and marble pillar that was constructed in 1192 covered with inscriptions from the Qur'an. An intricately carved marble mosque, living quarters, and burial site can be found on the complex grounds as well. Hindus cremate their dead, whereas Muslims bury their dead.

Day two helped me appreciate the phrase "hazy shade of winter". Obviously Simon and Garfunkel spent some time in Delhi! Winters here are equated with foggy conditions (although I'm guessing the haze is partially due to pollution). Yesterday's blue skies were replaced with a blanket of grey, which isn't very kind to snapping pictures.  Luckily Google images came to my rescue for blogging purposes (I swear, the Lotus Temple really looks like that!).

Nikki and I ventured out to the Baha'i House of Worship, more commonly known as the Lotus Temple. It is an imposing structure, although surprisingly small inside. It was built in 1986 and is open to members of all faiths as a place to come and pray. It is set in the middle of a perfectly manicured garden and surrounded by nine pools. No formal services are held at the temple, and the interior calls for complete silence so people may worship peacefully.

It is a beautiful and impressive temple, and therefore doesn't come as a shock that it has won many architectural awards and accolades.

Quite frankly, Delhi leaves something to be desired. Fortunately for us, Agra is a quick jaunt by train. And "quick jaunt" by India's terms means 2-3 hours. We caught the 6:00 am train from Delhi to Agra in hopes of escaping the chaos (and work!) for the day.

Our first stop in Agra was the Tomb of I'timād-ud-Daulah, sometimes referred to as "Baby Taj". Incidentally this is the resting place of Mirzā Ghiyās Beg, who happens to be the grandfather of Mumtaz Mahal, for whom the Taj Mahal was built. After 6 years of construction, this mausoleum was completed in 1628 and sits in a lovely garden along the Yamuna River. As luck would have it, the grounds were virtually empty when we visited.

Everywhere we visited in Agra were gorgeous displays of Mughal architecture, which is known for its use of marble, semi-precious stones, and elaborate craftsmanship.

Next on our list was the Agra Fort, which is a sprawling "walled city" covering 94 acres with walls at 70 feet high. Although the site has a history dating back almost 1000 years, the current state we see it in was completed during the 1628-1658 reign of Shah Jahan (who is more widely known for his construction of the Taj Mahal). An interesting tale surrounding the fort is that towards the end of his life, Shah Jahan was deposed by his son and held at the fort. However, his son placed him in captivity where he had a view of the Taj Mahal, the final resting place of his beloved wife Mumtāz Mahāl.

 

Naturally, we ended our day at the Taj Mahal. I could hardly move to India for a year and neglect to visit one of the modern wonders of the world!

 (yes, I really took this picture...and yes, I have awesome iPhone editing apps)

The Taj Mahal was built as a final resting place for Shah Jahan's third wife, Mumtāz Mahāl. She died at age 38 while giving birth to her fourteenth child. Although his third wife, it was widely recognized that she was the great love of his life and his first two marriages were merely perfunctory.

The Taj Mahal is as beautiful in real life as the pictures make it out to be. People arrive by droves in hopes of glimpsing inside the intricate marble walls. When I wasn't busy taking pictures of my own, I was being bombarded by people asking me to take pictures with them. For whatever reason, I am constantly mobbed in India with requests for pictures. Apparently all Americans are movie stars in India. Finally, Nikki dragged me away so we could look inside. He also suggested I start charging per picture. I would've made a small fortune by now! 

Even though the Taj Mahal is wonderfully large outside, you'll be surprised to know that the interior is rather small. There is an octagonal walkway around the two cenotaphs (empty tombs), with plenty of natural light. The actual tombs are beneath the Taj, and inaccessible to the general public. No shoes (although they give foreigners ugly shoe booties) and no photography is allowed inside.

(shhh, don't tell anyone!)

With all of the running around we had been doing, it was nice to just sit and relax amidst the throng.

  A 6 1/2 hour bus ride later, and we're back to Jaipur and back to the real world.

starlight

Right now India is in the festive season known as Diwali (also called Deepavali). It is commonly referred to as the "Festival of Lights", but more importantly it is spiritually significant in terms of recognizing inner light. Diwali is a five day long celebration in which families get together and participate in a variety of traditional activities. Although this is primarily a Hindu holiday, it is also celebrated by Sikhs and Jains. Small clay lamps are painstakingly filled with oil and lit continuously throughout the night to signify the triumph of good over evil. Firecrackers can be heard throughout the evenings, as they are believed to ward off evil.  Because I am an interpreter for a family business, I have the opportunity to witness the intricacies of this festival not normally afforded to a foreigner.

 Ganesh (god of auspicious beginnings and remover of obstacles) with several small deeyas (clay pots) to welcome prosperity.

I just so happen to live in a city that its well known for its Diwali celebration. Carnivals can be found on every street corner with rides, foods, and vendors selling various wares to exchange with friends and family for Diwali. I've been to the carnival 3 times in the last week!

Tinsel is strung so heavily that it has formed a canopy covering the streets. Lights cover every surface of the city. I might as well start referring to the old city as Las Vegas. Some of the displays are incredibly intricate, requiring weeks of preparation. The streets are crowded with late night shoppers, tourists, and vehicles loaded with people checking out the lights.

As with any special occasion in India, many women have their hands decorated with mehndi (read: henna). These can be very simple to very complex designs that will last up to a few weeks.

Although Diwali lasts for five days, the third day is the most important. This day, Amavaysa, marks the worship of Laksmi, the goddess of wealth. Pujas (prayer rituals) are performed in homes and businesses in hopes of receiving the blessing of prosperity for the upcoming year. Also on this day, people wear new clothing and have large meals with family. If you're lucky enough, drummers will show up at your home to encourage plenty of dancing.

Don't plan on going to sleep at a decent hour, because the fireworks will continue long into the night!